Monday, April 27, 2015

Hulu Plus App Updated With New Navigation, Handoff Support

Technobiru :

The Hulu Plus app has been updated with new navigation that makes it easier to find shows and support for iOS Handoff.

You know you wanna watch great TV this spring with Hulu. Many popular shows are available day after air and, depending on the shows, you can watch multiple episodes from the current season. Get unlimited instant streaming of 1000s of current-season and library TV shows and hit movies – anytime, anywhere for $7.99/month.

Features:
• Watch current season episodes of shows like Empire, Once Upon a Time, The Last Man on Earth, The Voice and many more.
• Enjoy previous seasons of CSI: Crime Scene Investigation, The Last Ship, Vikings, and more; kids programs including Hey Arnold!, SpongeBob SquarePants, and Sesame Street; Latino series and top telenovelas; Hulu Original series Deadbeat and the Emmy®-nominated East Los High; and much more.
• Stream and control your viewing experience from your iPhone or iPad to your TV with Apple TV, Chromecast, Xbox One, PlayStation 3 and PlayStation 4 using the in-app remote control.
• Resume watching from where you left off on your TV or other supported device.
• Watch over WiFi, 3G and 4G.

What's New In This Version:
• New navigation that makes it easy to discover personalized and editorially curated shows and clips, catchup with the shows you watch and browse Hulu's full catalogue.
• iOS Handoff that lets you continue watching where you left off, right from the lock screen of your iOS 8 devices

You can download Hulu Plus from the App Store for free.

Read More

HTG Reviews the WeMo Smart LED Bulb: It’s Not the Future if Your Light Bulbs Are Offline

Technobiru :

The only thing standing between you and remote access smart bulbs is a little bit of money, a little configuration, and a little stroll through our review to see if it’s worth it. Read on as we put the Belkin WeMo Smart LED Bulbs through the paces and highlight the good and bad that comes with adding networked light bulbs to your home.

What Are WeMo Smart LED Bulbs?

In 2012 Belkin launched their WeMo home automation line which now includes networked wall switches, power outlets, security cameras, motion sensors, and even networked crock pots, humidifiers, and other home appliances.

The Smart LED Bulbs are one of the more recent additions and introduce networked LED lighting to the WeMo stable of products. The bulbs have a standard A19 shape like common incandescent bulbs with a general appearance common to many LED bulbs (an opaque base which houses the electronics and a smaller dome up top for the LED component). Currently the the bulbs come in only one flavor: a 60w equivalent bulb (that uses 10w of power) with 800 lumens of illumination, a warm white color temperature of roughly 3,000K, and a projected lifespan of 23 years based on an average daily use of 3 hour a day.

While that’s all well and good in terms of LED bulb statistics, the real point of interest (and the justification for the price tag) is the smart element of the bulb design. Like the other WeMo products the Smart LED Bulbs are linked to the local network and greater internet via the appropriately named WeMo Link module. (For the curious the bulbs use the ZigBee low-power mesh networking standard and the Link acts as bridge between the ZigBee mesh network and your home’s Wi-Fi network.)

Via the mobile application and pre-programmed settings you can turn the bulbs on and off, set them to timers (as well as other triggers like sunrise and sunset), and control the lights from outside your home via internet-based remote control.

You can purchase the bulbs individually for $29.99 and add them onto your existing WeMo home system or, if this is your first foray into using the WeMo system you can purchase a smart bulb starter kit for $99.99 that includes the Link module and two smart bulbs.

Let’s take a look at how you install and configure the bulbs, how you access and use them from the mobile interface, and what we thought of the whole process (and the resulting smart bulb experience).

How Do You Install and Configure Them?

Installation of the Link module and the bulbs is really straight forward and conveniently illustrated right on the large card inside the box the kit ships in. Even if you find yourself without the original packaging, the Android/iOS application offers very clear step-by-step instructions for all WeMo family products including the bulbs.

To set up the bulbs, simply screw them into a standard light socket and then turn them on (they need to stay on during the configuration process so if they are attached to a wall-switched fixture it would be wise to tell anyone in the vicinity not to use the switch until you’re done). Once the bulbs are inserted and on, plug in the WeMo Link module. It doesn’t have to be right by the location of the bulbs but it should be relatively central to where you are using the bulbs and within range of your Wi-Fi router.

The Link will blink green during the setup process. Don’t worry about annoying LEDs here, however, as it only lights up during the configuration process or if something is wrong with the system. When everything is up and running the LED is off.

With the bulbs and Link powered up, it’s time to install the WeMo application your smartphone. You can grab the Android version here or the iOS version here. We’ll be using the iOS version but the interface and setup process is identical regardless.

After downloading the application but before launching it, open up the Wi-Fi settings on your device. You’ll see a new and temporary Wi-Fi access point labeled something like WeMo.Link.XXX as seen in the screenshot below.

Connect to the temporary access point and then launch the WeMo application. It will automatically begin the process of linking itself to your actual Wi-Fi network by prompting you to select your network, entering the security information, and then you’ll likely need to sit back and wait for a firmware update. (Be prepared for the firmware update, if it is triggered, to take an unusually long time; a scenario Belkin seems aware of because the firmware update screen encourages you to play Angry Birds while you wait.)

After the firmware updates it will automatically scan for any WeMo devices in range of the Link module.

Once the devices are detected you can select them and then add them to the Link module. The bulbs will blink on and off to indicate they are successfully connected.

There are a few tips worth passing along here as they don’t appear in the included installation guide (or on the app’s digital installation guide) but they’re rather important if things don’t work correctly the first time. If your Link isn’t detecting any or all of your light bulbs you’ll want to reset both the Link module and the bulbs. To reset the Link module itself, press and hold the small button found on the lower side of the device; unplug and replug the device while holding the button for five seconds. If you need to reset the bulbs you, we kid you not, turn the light fixture they’re connected to on and off rapidly 5 times in a row at a rate of one on/off cycle every three seconds or so. A simple pinhole reset button as found on router and other electronic devices would be much preferred to on/off system. We’re having visions of a derpy kid playing with the light switch and resetting the bulbs; that’s an unnecessary pain.

How Do You Use Them?

Using the light bulbs ranges from simply toggling them on/off and dimming them with the manual app interface to setting up in-app rules to configuring IFTTT recipes for more complex interactions with the lighting system.

The first and most important thing you need to understand about using the bulbs is that they only work as long as there is power to the socket they are screwed into. Although Belkin does have smart wall switches and outlet switches in the WeMo stable the bulbs have no mechanism for controlling the wiring circuit they are attached to. This means if you (or another member of your household) turns the lamp or wall switch off then the magic of networked smart bulbs comes to an end. Now, in fairness to Belkin, this is not a flaw with their Smart LED Bulb and/or WeMo system but a problem that needs to be addressed across the entire smart bulb product category: the vast majority of smart lighting solutions are not smart enough to outsmart traditional house wiring.

That said when they are used in their intended fashion (controlled by the Link module/mobile application) they work very well. The interface on the mobile application is easy to use and once you program a routine or schedule for the bulbs the schedule is stored in the Link and it will execute at the right time (or in the face of the right input trigger) whether you’re there with your smartphone or not.

While manually controlling the bulbs is novel (and useful when you want to directly and immediately control them) the real smart bulb power shines through when you dig into both the “Rules” category and, at the more advanced level, the IFTTT programming.

Within the rules menu you can set up automatic timers (based on the clock or on the local sunrise/sunset cycle, as well as adjusting both of those based on the day of the week). You can also set auto-off timers such that the bulb turns off automatically after someone leaves it on and, if you combine the bulbs and Link module with the Belkin WeMo Motion Sensor/Switch package you can trigger light-related events with the motion sensor.

Finally the newly released IFTTT support for the Smart LED Bulbs allows you to copy or craft custom IFTTT recipes to control your smart bulbs. You can read more about the general concept of IFTTT here, specifically how to set up the WeMo system with IFTTT here, and finally you can find existing recipes (to see how people are using IFTTT with the WeMo system) here. It’s worth noting that the IFTTT support for the WeMo Smart Bulbs is so fresh, as of this review, that there aren’t many recipes in the database yet; you can look at other WeMo recipes to get an idea of how it all works though.

The Good, The Bad, and The Verdict

After installing, configuring, and playing around with the bulbs what’s our impression of the Belkin WeMo Smart LED Bulb kit?

The Good

  • Traditional bulb shape means no worries about placement, bulb-attached shades, or the like.
  • Installation, if you follow the instructions and do everything in order, is extremely simple.
  • The application control panel is polished and pretty intuitive to use.
  • Location based sunrise/sunset illumination as well as the fade in/out timers work very well.
  • It’s easy to group bulbs together so more than one bulb can be manipulated via the app or programmed with a shared schedule.
  • Although it took Belkin a long time to activate the feature (it went live shortly before this review) the bulbs do support IFTTT recipes.

The Bad

  • The starter kit and bulbs are, even with recent price reduction, still slightly more expensive than competing solutions like the Philips Hue Lux.
  • No physical switch; you can only toggle and adjust the lights via the smartphone app.
  • There’s no remote web interface (as there is with another smart home product we recently reviewed, the Google Nest).
  • The reset process, while not always necessary, is very poorly documented and implemented.

The Verdict

It was easy to install the bulbs and it was easy to use the bulbs. What proved to be the most difficult part of testing and reviewing the WeMo Smart LED Bulbs was writing a verdict when it was all said and done. Smart bulbs are such a new product and the market is still so strongly under development and transition it’s difficult to recommend smart bulbs to anyone in the first place unless they’re really ready and willing to jump into the smart home market and willing to spend the cash to be an early adopter.

The WeMo Smart Bulbs performed exactly like advertised. The remote control app was smooth and easy to use. The IFFTT support that was missing when we started field testing the bulbs was added during the course of the review window.

All that said, we can really only strongly recommend the bulbs if you already have a WeMo-based ecosystem at home and you’re looking for super easy integration into that ecosystem or, and this is a big or, you have a very specific use in mind (like using the bulbs + link it to make a smart sunrise alarm clock for cheaper than the less flexible/powerful store bought models). Despite all the ease of use the WeMo Smart LED system is self-limiting in that the WeMo Link Hub can support other ZigBee lights (but officially does not), the price of the WeMo bulbs is higher than other feature-identical bulbs, and there are currently no other lighting solutions in the WeMo stable.

As a stand alone product it worked just fine (even with the little quirks like resetting the bulbs by flicking the lights on and off). In the context of the emerging smart bulb market, however, the WeMo Smart LED Bulb system struggles to edge out the competition like the Philips Hue (in terms of versatility) and the GE Link and Cree Smart Bulb (in terms of price).

Sunday, April 26, 2015

Get Chromecast-Style Controls on Any Device With YouTube Pairing

Technobiru :

YouTube has an integrated remote-control feature. Pair the YouTube app on your phone or the website on your computer with YouTube on any streaming box, smart TV, or game console for easy, Chromecast-style browsing and playback controls.

This even allows you to control YouTube playback in your computer’s web browser, which is very useful if you’re watching YouTube on a computer connected to your TV — or if you’re using your laptop as a makeshift television screen.

Start the YouTube TV Interface on Your TV or Computer

First, start the YouTube app on your game console, smart TV, streaming box, or whatever other device you want to watch it on. This can be anything from a Roku or the YouTube app built into your smart TV to the YouTube apps available on the various generations of PlayStation, Xbox, and Wii consoles.

Want to watch YouTube on your laptop, desktop, or any other device with a web browser? Load up the YouTube TV interface at http://ift.tt/1sZEnNh in your web browser. This will make your computer function a lot like a set-top box with a YouTube app. In fact, this is the exact same standard interface you’ll find on modern YouTube devices — except it can be run in a web browser on almost every platform. Press F11 to make this interface go full-screen in your web browser.

Scroll down in the menu at the left side of the YouTube interface until you see a “Settings” option. Select it. (If you’re using the YouTube TV interface on aa computer, use your arrow keys and the Enter key.) You can manage paired devices from this Settings screen later — you’ll see a number of paired devices to the right of the “Pair Device” icon if you have devices paired.

Select the “Pair Device” option to start pairing your device with the YouTube app on a modern smartphone, or the YouTube website on a laptop or other computer. You’ll get a pairing code you’ll need to pair another device with the YouTube TV interface.

Start the YouTube App or Website on a Smartphone or Computer

You can use a smartphone, tablet, or laptop, or another type of device for this. On a smartphone or tablet, launch the YouTube app for Android, iPhone, or iPad. Open the sidebar, tap the Settings icon, and tap “Connected TVs.”

Enter the pairing code shown on the YouTube TV app here.

If you want to contorl the YouTube TV interface from your computer, open the YouTube Pair page at http://ift.tt/1pAUVqV. You can also navigate to your YouTube account settings page and select “Connected TVs.”

Enter the pairing code shown on your TV and the YouTube website will be paired with it.

Schedule Videos and Control Playback

Whether you’re using the YouTube mobile app or the full YouTube website on your computer, you can now remotely control the TV’s playback. Search for videos and tap or click them — when you do, you’ll be able either start playing them immediately on the TV or add them to the queue. They’ll be played back automatically after your currently queued videos finish.

While watching videos, the YouTube app or website will function as a remote control, allowing you to pause videos, resume playback, rewind, and fast forward. It’s a lot like Chromecasting — but it will work with the YouTube app on basically any device, from smart TV interfaces to the YouTube website on a computer plugged into your TV.

YouTube also allows you to use the DIAL protocol to “cast” videos to a Roku, smart TV, or other DIAL-enabled device. This allows you to effectively use your Roku or modern smart TV like a Chromecast, at least for YouTube.


This may not be the most convenient feature if you already have a Chromecast, but it works anywhere you have a YouTube TV app or access to the YouTube website.

Chris Hoffman is a technology writer and all-around computer geek. He's as at home using the Linux terminal as he is digging into the Windows registry. Connect with him on Google+.

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Threads share static variable but behave differently with respect to it

Here is my code. Obviously this doesn't do a lot but that's only because I abstracted out the problem so that you guys didn't have so many lines to decipher.

Java Code:

import java.util.Scanner;

class threadOne extends threadTwo {
        
        public static void main(String[] args) {
                
                threadTwo threadTwoObj = new threadTwo();
                threadTwoObj.start();
                
                while (!userInput.equals("exit")) {
                        Scanner scannerObj = new Scanner(System.in);
                        userInput = scannerObj.nextLine();
                }
                
        }
        
}

Java Code:

class threadTwo implements Runnable {

        private Thread threadObj;
        public static String userInput = "default";

        public void start() {
                threadObj = new Thread (this, "Thread Two");
                threadObj.start();
        }
        
        public void run() {
                while (!userInput.equals("exit")) {}
        }
}
What its supposed to do: When the user returns "exit" in the console it is supposed to break out of both while loops in both threads.
What it actually does: breaks out of the while loop in threadOne and not in threadTwo.

In case you are wondering the idea behind this, basically the idea is to have a thread running doing computation and another thread able to query it for updates or interact to make changes to the flow. This will be useful, among other ways, for the sorts of problems where finding a solution is easy but where a better solution can always be found with more time. So for example finding directions on a map. Its easy to find a solution, but if you search longer you can find a faster route, if you search longer still than faster still.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Apple Proclaims 'The Watch is Here' [Image]

Technobiru :

Apple has updated its website to announce 'The Watch is Here' as customers in Australia begin receiving their pre-orders.

Australia is the first country to get delivery of the Apple Watch. Next comes Hong Kong, China, and Japan, then France, Germany, and the United Kingdom. Canada and the U.S. will be the last countries to get the device.

Check out a few photos below and let us know in the comments if you've already received yours!

Please follow iClarified on Twitter, Facebook, Google+, or RSS for more updates on the Apple Watch.

Read More [via @melfirbank] [via Irene]

Why Does Emptying Disk Space Speed Up Computers?

Technobiru :

When learning more about computers and how they work, you will occasionally run across something that does not seem to make sense. With that in mind, does emptying disk space actually speed computers up? Today’s SuperUser Q&A post has the answer to a puzzled reader’s question.

Today’s Question & Answer session comes to us courtesy of SuperUser—a subdivision of Stack Exchange, a community-driven grouping of Q&A web sites.

SuperUser reader Remi.b wants to know why emptying disk space seems to speed up a computer:

“Why does emptying disk space speed up computers?”

It does not, at least not on its own. This is a really common myth. The reason it is a common myth is because filling up your hard drive often happens at the same time as other things that traditionally could slow down your computer (A). SSD performance does tend to degrade as they fill, but this is a relatively new issue, unique to SSDs, and is not really noticeable for casual users. Generally, low free disk space is just a red herring.

For example, things like:

1. File fragmentation. File fragmentation is an issue (B), but lack of free space, while definitely one of many contributing factors, is not the only cause of it. Some key points here:

  • The chances of a file being fragmented are not related to the amount of free space left on the drive. They are related to the size of the largest contiguous block of free space on the drive (i.e. “holes” of free space), which the amount of free space happens to put an upper bound on. They are also related to how the file system handles file allocation (more below). Consider: A drive that is 95% full with all the free space in one single contiguous block has 0% chance of fragmenting a new file (C) (and the chance of fragmenting an appended file is independent of the free space). A drive that is 5% full but with data spread evenly over the drive has a very high chance of fragmentation.
  • Keep in mind that file fragmentation only affects performance when the fragmented files are being accessed. Consider: You have a nice, defragmented drive that still has lots of free “holes” in it. A common scenario. Everything is running smoothly. Eventually, though, you get to a point where there are no more large blocks of free space remaining. You download a huge movie, the file ends up being severely fragmented. This will not slow down your computer. All of your application files and such that were previously fine will not suddenly become fragmented. This may make the movie take longer to load (although typical movie bit rates are so low compared to hard drive read rates that it will most likely be unnoticeable), and it may affect I/O-bound performance while the movie is loading, but other than that, nothing changes.
  • While file fragmentation is certainly an issue, often times the effects are mitigated by OS and hardware level buffering and caching. Delayed writes, read-ahead, strategies like the prefetcher in Windows, etc., all help reduce the effects of fragmentation. You generally do not actually experience significant impact until the fragmentation becomes severe (I would even venture to say that as long as your swap file is not fragmented, you will probably never notice).

2. Search indexing is another example. Say that you have automatic indexing turned on and an OS that does not handle this gracefully. As you save more and more indexable content to your computer (documents and such), indexing may take longer and longer and may start to have an effect on the perceived speed of your computer while it is running, both in I/O and CPU usage. This is not related to free space, it is related to the amount of indexable content you have. However, running out of free space goes hand in hand with storing more content, hence a false connection is drawn.

3. Anti-virus software (similar to the search indexing example). Say that you have anti-virus software set up to do background scanning of your drive. As you have more and more scannable content, the search takes more I/O and CPU resources, possibly interfering with your work. Again, this is related to the amount of scannable content you have. More content often equals less free space, but the lack of free space is not the cause.

4. Installed software. Say that you have a lot of software installed that loads when your computer boots, thus slowing down start-up times. This slow down happens because lots of software is being loaded. However, installed software takes up hard drive space. Therefore, hard drive free space decreases at the same time that this happens, and again a false connection can be readily made.

5. Many other examples along these lines which, when taken together, appear to closely associate lack of free space with lower performance.

The above illustrates another reason that this is such a common myth: While the lack of free space is not a direct cause of slow down, uninstalling various applications, removing indexed or scanned content, etc. sometimes (but not always; outside the scope of this answer) increases performance again for reasons unrelated to the amount of free space remaining. But this also naturally frees up hard drive space. Therefore, again, an apparent (but false) connection between “more free space” and a “faster computer” can be made.

Consider: If you have a machine running slowly due to lots of installed software, etc., clone your hard drive (exactly) to a larger hard drive, then expand your partitions to gain more free space, the machine will not magically speed up. The same software loads, the same files are still fragmented in the same ways, the same search indexer still runs, nothing changes despite having more free space.

“Does it have something to do with searching for memory space to save things?”

No. It does not. There are two very important things worth noting here:

1. Your hard drive does not search around to find places to put things. Your hard drive is stupid. It is nothing. It is a big block of addressed storage that blindly puts things where your OS tells it to and reads whatever is asked of it. Modern drives have sophisticated caching and buffering mechanisms designed around predicting what the OS is going to ask for based on the experience we have gained over time (some drives are even aware of the file system that is on them), but essentially, think of your drive as just a big dumb brick of storage with occasional bonus performance features.

2. Your operating system does not search for places to put things, either. There is no searching. Much effort has gone into solving this problem as it is critical to file system performance. The way that data is actually organized on your drive is determined by your file system. For example, FAT32 (old DOS and Windows PCs), NTFS (later editions of Windows), HFS+ (Mac), ext4 (some Linux systems), and many others. Even the concept of a “file” and a “directory” are merely products of typical file systems — hard-drives know nothing about the mysterious beasts called files. Details are outside the scope of this answer. But essentially, all common file systems have ways of tracking where the available space is on a drive so that a search for free space is, under normal circumstances (i.e. file systems in good health), unnecessary. Examples:

  • NTFS has a master file table, which includes the special files $Bitmap, etc., and plenty of meta data describing the drive. Essentially it keeps track of where the next free blocks are so that new files can be written directly to free blocks without having to scan the drive every time.
  • Another example: Ext4 has what is called the bitmap allocator, an improvement over ext2 and ext3 that basically helps it directly determine where free blocks are instead of scanning the list of free blocks. Ext4 also supports delayed allocation, that is, buffering of data in RAM by the OS before writing it out to the drive in order to make better decisions about where to put it to reduce fragmentation.
  • Many other examples.

“Or with moving things around to make a long enough continuous space to save something?”

No. This does not happen, at least not with any file system I am aware of. Files just end up fragmented.

The process of “moving things around to make up a long enough contiguous space for saving something” is called defragmenting. This does not happen when files are written. This happens when you run your disk defragmenter. On newer editions of Windows, at least, this happens automatically on a schedule, but it is never triggered by writing a file.

Being able to avoid moving things around like this is key to file system performance, and is why fragmentation happens and why defragmentation exists as a separate step.

“How much empty space should I leave free on a hard disk?”

This is a trickier question to answer (and this answer has already turned into a small book).

Rules of thumb:

1. For all types of drives:

  • Most importantly, leave enough free space for you to use your computer effectively. If you are running out of space to work, you will want a bigger drive.
  • Many disk defragmentation tools require a minimum amount of free space (I think the one with Windows requires 15 percent, worst case) to work in. They use this free space to temporarily hold fragmented files as other things are rearranged.
  • Leave space for other OS functions. For example, if your machine does not have a lot of physical RAM, and you have virtual memory enabled with a dynamically sized page file, you will want to leave enough space for the page file’s maximum size. Or if you have a laptop that you put into hibernation mode, you will need enough free space for the hibernation state file. Things like that.

2. SSD-specific:

  • For optimum reliability (and to a lesser extent, performance), SSDs require some free space, which, without going into too much detail, they use for spreading data around the drive to avoid constantly writing to the same place (which wears them out). This concept of leaving free space is called over-provisioning. It is important, but in many SSDs, mandatory over-provisioned space already exists. That is, the drives often have a few dozen more GB than they report to the OS. Lower-end drives often require you to manually leave unpartitioned space, but for drives with mandatory OP, you do not need to leave any free space. An important thing to note here is that over-provisioned space is often only taken from unpartitioned space. So if your partition takes up your entire drive and you leave some free space on it, that does not always count. Many times, manual over-provisioning requires you to shrink your partition to be smaller than the size of the drive. Check your SSD’s user manual for details. TRIM, garbage collection, and such have effects as well, but those are outside the scope of this answer.

Personally, I usually grab a bigger drive when I have about 20-25 percent free space remaining. This is not related to performance, it is just that when I get to that point, I expect that I will probably be running out of space for data soon and it is time to get a bigger drive.

More important than watching free space is making sure scheduled defragmentation is enabled where appropriate (not on SSDs) so that you never get to the point where it becomes dire enough to affect you.


There is one last thing worth mentioning. One of the other answers here mentioned that SATA’s half-duplex mode prevents reading and writing at the same time. While true, this is greatly oversimplified and is mostly unrelated to the performance issues being discussed here. What this means, simply, is that data cannot be transferred in both directions on the wire at the same time. However, SATA has a fairly complex specification involving tiny maximum block sizes (about 8kB per block on the wire, I think), read and write operation queues, etc., and does not preclude writes to buffers happening while reads are in progress, interleaved operations, etc.

Any blocking that occurs would be due to competing for physical resources, usually mitigated by plenty of cache. The duplex mode of SATA is almost entirely irrelevant here.


(A) “Slow down” is a broad term. Here I use it to refer to things that are either I/O-bound (i.e. if your computer is sitting there crunching numbers, the contents of the hard drive have no impact) or CPU-bound and competing with tangentially related things that have high CPU usage (i.e. anti-virus software scanning tons of files).

(B) SSDs are affected by fragmentation in that sequential access speeds are generally faster than random access, despite SSDs not facing the same limitations as a mechanical device (even then, lack of fragmentation does not guarantee sequential access due to wear leveling, etc.). However, in virtually every general use scenario, this is a non-issue. Performance differences due to fragmentation on SSDs are typically negligible for things like loading applications, booting the computer, etc.

(C) Assuming a sane file system that is not fragmenting files on purpose.

Make sure to read through the rest of the lively discussion at SuperUser via the link below!

Have something to add to the explanation? Sound off in the comments. Want to read more answers from other tech-savvy Stack Exchange users? Check out the full discussion thread here.

Apple Posts the Apple Watch User Guide

Technobiru :

Apple has posted the Apple Watch User Guide online ahead of pre-order deliveries tomorrow.

The guide covers basic functionality of the watch including: Watch Faces, Notifications, Glances, Timekeeping, Messages, Phone Calls, and more.

It should be available on the iBooks Store soon.

Take a look at the link below!

Read More [via Amy]